Install Tricks for Double Drives Mac Mini

Carl Shank • January 19, 2024

Install Tricks for Double Drives on a Mac Mini. This Blog references upgrading Mac Mini 2011 to Late 2012 with double drives. If you want a video installation of the drives go to OWC at https://eshop.macsales.com/installvideos/mac_mini2012_server_hd/Macmini6-1-nonserver/

OR iFixit at

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2NORZR0BbZs.


Both installation videos are complete and helpful for the first-timer. But as a Mac Mini user (I have 4 of them with different operating systems), I have found the following procedure helpful and non-detrimental to the delicate ribbon cables inside the Mini. (I have learned through harsh experience how to inadvertently snap off the delicate fan or IR holder on the mother board. And buying an older machine, say on Ebay, can get you a machine with inside fragile parts that tend to snap off when using the video based installation procedures.)  So, here you go.

  1. Turn the Mini over and carefully remove the back cover by sliding the white dot on the cover to the white dot on the machine.
  2. Remove the memory chips.
  3. Using a Torx T6 screwdriver remove the fan screws. DO NOT REMOVE THE FAN CONNECTOR FROM THE MOTHER BOARD! Just move it to one side.
  4. Remove the cowling using the T6 screwdriver.
  5. Using a Torx T8 screwdriver remove the hex screws holding the airport metal screen over the drive. DO NOT remove  the cable attaching the airport cable to the machine. Set that to one side.
  6. Lift the SATA connectors on the logic board straight up gently.
  7. You should then be able to carefully lift out the hard drive from the Mini. If it seems too tight, then you need to move the logic board back only slightly by taking the screw out from the back of the logic board and then using a Mini pry tool move the logic board back just a bit from where the drives are. (Go to the videos here for this procedure. If you use this procedure then before the next steps you will need to push the logic board back in place after the drives are seated and put the back screw into the logic board.)
  8. Attach the lower drive SATA cable (SEE NOTES below) to the drive that will be the lower drive and gently push it into the generous space, being careful not to impact the fan cable or IR cable or power cable on the logic board. This can be done with a gentle hand and no need to fully remove the logic board and other components as in the video instructions.
  9. Attach the SATA cable to the upper drive you are using and gently place that drive into the upper drive slot.
  10. Attach the SATA cables to the two places on the logic board.
  11. Attach the airport metal screen being careful not to inadvertently unattach the SATA cables from the logic board.
  12. Attach the cowling.
  13. Screw the Fan back into its place.
  14. Place the memory back into the Mini.
  15. Put the back cover on by aligning the white dots and twisting the cover until it snaps into place.

Unless you are constantly moving the Mini, this procedure will save you from either ruining the fan cable or logic board fan cable holder. You will not have to essentially take the Mini apart, put it back together, and hope that all goes well.


I have used this procedure many times and have found it to be an acceptable alternative to the traditional video procedures. If you have any questions please email me at cshanktype@gmail.com.


NOTES:

•  If using a Mac OS 10.8.x see https://eshop.macsales.com/blog/15619-special-note-for-adding-an-ssd-to-a-2012-mac-mini/#comment-61641 for necessary cautions.

•  SSDs are recommended to replace older hard drives. OWC has a number of options here at macsales.com.

•  You still need a Data Double kit for the SATA cables required.

Successful Layout & Design

Compositors & Type: Origin and Use of “Uppercase” and “Lowercase”

By Carl Shank • June 13, 2026
Compositors & Type: Origin and Use of “Uppercase” and “Lowercase” Carl Shank, CARE Typography Most everyone knows what “uppercase” and “lowercase” letters are. They refer, of course, to our “capital” letters and our “regular” small print. But not many know why or how they came to be known by such terminology. The answer is found in the history and development of typography and printing. “Case” here doesn’t refer to “circumstance” or “condition.” It refers to the wooden trays used to store metal letters, the top case for capital letters (“uppercase”) and the lower case for small letters. Each tray was divided into compartments to hold the type. The lower case also held the punctuation marks and other pieces of type, like “spacers.” The type case was a shallow wooden tray divided into compartments of various sizes. There were about thirty styles of type cases, and some of these were made in different sizes.[1] The most common, or standard, size was 32¼ by 16 inches, outside dimensions, and ⅛ inches deep, inside. One of three traditional plans or schemes for such type cases involved (1) all characters in one case; (2) capitals, small capitals and a few other characters in one case; or (3) the small letters, figures, points, spaces and quads in another case. The two latter cases formed a pair and would nearly always be used together.(See Images) Hand compositors (or “swifts”) would take individual letters, spaces and punctuation marks or other characters from the type case and place them in what was called a composing “stick” in such a manner that when the type characters are properly assembled, they form words, sentences and paragraphs. The work of the press room compositor was divided into two fundamental operations — the “setting” of type and the “unsetting” of type. The former was called composition and the latter, distribution. A visual example of such typesetting can be seen in some of the episodes of The Waltons, an American historical dramatelevision series about a family in rural western Virginia in the Appalachian/Blue Ridge mountains chain, during the economic hardships and mass unemployment of the Great Depression in the 1930s and the subsequent United State home front during World War II in the 1940s. The series aired from 1972 to 1981. John-Boy, a leading character of the series, opened a print shop in a shed by the family home with an old-fashioned mechanical printer that required setting cold metal type from a type case. His brother was the compositor while John-Boy ran the printing machine.

Vanity Type

By Carl Shank • June 6, 2026
Reading through an old volume of Frederick Nelson Phillips, Inc, Type Faces:With Which We 'Prove It With Proofs' in Typography for Advertisements (New York, 1924), I came across some type that falls outside of the standard typography models, called "vanity type." The term “vanity typography” is not a formal category in typographic history like Old Style, Transitional, Modern, or Sans Serif. Designers typically use the phrase informally to describe typography that draws attention primarily to itself rather than serving the text or reader. Vanity typography occurs when type is used as a display of the designer's skill, fashion, or personal taste rather than to improve communication. Readability is sometimes sacrificed for self-expression and artistic flair. Such type styles use excessive ornamentation, decorative letterforms, overuse of effects like shadows, outlines, gradients and distortions, unusual spacing, and generally typography used to impress rather than inform. Notice in the sample by Phillips, the different "A's," "F's,", "G's," "H's," "L's," "M's," "S's," T's" and "W's." This is not calligraphy lettering, but rather type that could have been used for verses or opening letters to paragraphs or stories.
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